Elena's L'Etoile

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Square Meal Review of Elena's L'Etoile ?

Once a haunt of stars from stage and screen (note the gallery of autographed celeb photos on the walls) and a favourite bolthole for journos during the 90s, this ‘iconic eatery' seems to have gone off the boil judging by recent reports of ‘more waiters than diners' in the nostalgically OTT, art-deco dining room. Nevertheless, the kitchen soldiers on, serving up unapologetically old-school French dishes with barely a glance at the culinary world outside. Step into the time warp with a bowl of vichyssoise or sautéed lamb's sweetbreads with garlic croutons, before choosing from retro mains such as braised ox-cheek bourguignon or pavé of salmon with baby leeks and sorrel sauce. Set menus are fairly priced for the postcode, but that can't disguise the fact that Elena's star is on the wane.

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  1. Published : Tuesday, 10 September 2013

    Wrap Your Lips Around This :: Elena L’Etoile

    Evidence that Elena L’Etoile has passed a hundred years perched on Charlotte Street is written in the worn red velvet seating, starched linens and signed photographs of youthful actors from another era – proof that Susan Sarandon didn’t emerge from a womb etched and sardonic, should anyone need it. The petite dining room forms part of the character of this establishment and some of the wait staff seem as if they have been fixtures for a very long time...
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