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It’s no longer as busy as some of its smarter competitors on Ebury Street, but this seasoned campaigner is “still full of people who love it and seek it out” – notes a reader who has known the place for more than 30 years. Elaborate floral arrangements and faded murals of leafy landscapes suit the mature clientele, while homely dishes such as braised lamb shank with polenta cake complement the rustic mood. Long lunches are its stock in trade, but the carte also offers more contemporary culinary stimulation – perhaps pigeon breast with pickled mushrooms and candied walnuts or chorizo-crusted cod with courgette and saffron fondue. There are plenty of meaty grills too, while desserts might offer aniseed parfait with blackberry coulis. The global wine list suits all budgets, although consumption of Champagne is noticeably high. “Great for local gossip too”.
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