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Square Meal Review of Drake's Restaurant ?

Drake’s restaurant is one of Surrey’s most treasured haunts – a beautiful and imposing Georgian building that has been jazzed up with contemporary flounce and clean, modern lines. In other words, the perfect setting for Steve Drake’s precise, boundary-pushing food – the kind that wins Michelin stars. With two tasting menus (plus a vegetarian version), the whole experience is fit for special occasions, but there’s no sense of stuffy fine dining about the place. Diners are taken through six- and nine-course seasonal menus full of dazzling surprises – from cured mackerel with seaweed, nasturtium and tomato juice, via pickled Yorkshire rose petals with dried beetroot to pork cheeks cooked in vermouth with cockles and crab apples. To finish, perhaps try a curious combo of strawberries, coconut, peas and mint. Monthly changing lunch menus are good value, while service is friendly and efficient.

Wine List Of The Year

With wines split up by style (‘Dry, Crisp and Refreshing’; ‘Aromatic and Floral’ for instance) and including helpful tasting notes and info on the grape varieties, the Drakes list conveys an awful lot in a painless, easy-to-follow fashion. Nice to see some local vineyards in there, but a few more suppliers wouldn’t go amiss. Shortlisted for the second year on the trot, Drakes offers a lesson in clarity.


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