Dishoom Carnaby

A vibrant menu? Check. Queues for dinner? Check. Kitsch Bombay nostalgia? Check. It’s business as usual at Dishoom’s Carnaby branch, but that’s as it should be. Dishoom has really taken off in recent years, with branches opening in a number of cities outside London, but it’s heartening to know that it remains true to its principles. The concept – to pay homage to Bombay’s once ubiquitous Irani cafés which brought people from all walks of life together over food and drink – is as evident here, today, as it was when Dishoom opened its very first restaurant in Covent Garden.  

Styling in this sprawling ground-floor bar-restaurant on Kingly Street is inspired by the 1960s: Brimful of Asha in four dimensions. Professional yet friendly staff galvanise the buzzy atmosphere, advising on their favourite dishes and making recommendations, until you’re so immersed you may forget, momentarily, that you’re in central London.

Breakfast and brunch is prime time at Dishoom Carnaby, with punters queuing up for the likes of a bacon, egg or vegan sausage naan roll, a bowl of creamy date and banana porridge or a freshly-baked pau bun dipped in hot chai. Mild spicing characterises the all-day menu of small plates, grills, curries and biryanis, that also caters to children, vegetarians, vegans and anyone gluten-free. Comfort food is a highlight: whether deeply creamy black dhal, a Roomali roti roll loaded with paneer and mint chutney, or buttery pau bhaji. Finish up with a tooth-achingly sweet dessert such as syrup-soaked gulab jamun, or a serving of cooling kulfi.

The spiced cocktail list includes bottle-aged options; wines focus on Europe; and the house chai (served to the often hour-long queue outside) is delicious. With evening reservations for six diners or more only, Dishoom is ideal for parties: it certainly has the requisite vibes, flavours and drinks.

Inspired by the early Irani cafés of downtown Bombay, Dishoom offers all day Indian dining from their renowned breakfast naans to warming late night daals. The Carnaby branch on lively Kingly Street stays true to the brand’s infamous quirky style, complete with colonial décor and old-school glamour. Expect colourful retro furniture, vintage Bollywood posters and a juke box playing a selection of favourite rock ‘n’ roll hits from the swinging sixties.

Dishoom is as much about transporting you to a different era as it is about introducing top-tasting Bombay street food to hungry London diners. Its unconventional breakfast offering sees people queuing down the street from 8am for bacon naan rolls (also available for takeaway) and an unlimited supply of date and banana porridge.

Come lunch and dinner, the menu opens up to include a wider selection of curries, biryanis, and a range of traditional choices from the grill such as smoky gunpowder potatoes, paneer pineapple tikka and masala prawns. Exclusive to the Carnaby menu is Salli Boti, a warming braised lamb dish in rich aromatic gravy served with crunchy sali crisp-chips and roomali roti (a thin, buttery flatbread). For those in search of something lighter, the wide selection of small plates, salads and veggie sides are perfect for sharing. Look out for crispy lamb and vegetable samosas, okra fries and the signature Pau bhaji – a bowl of mashed vegetables served with a hot, buttered, home-made bun.  

The Permit Room is a swish bar setting for exploring Dishoom’s enticing ‘prohibition’ cocktail list which includes a selection of slings, coolers, fizzes, sours and fancies. Favourites include the East India Gimlet devised for sailors to evade scurvy and the classic Dishoom Espresso Martini for a smooth and decadent pick-me-up. The drinks menu also comprises an interesting selection of affordable wines, beers and ciders and non-drinkers will be spoilt for choice with the selection of lassis, old-fashioned sharbats, ‘copy tipples’, and virgin coolers to try.