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Square Meal Review of De La Panza ?

De La Panza aims to bring the spirit of Argentinian ‘bodegónes’ (café-style, neighbourhood eateries) to Islington & De Beauvoir – thanks to owner George Rockett & his partner Gastón Carrano (of Buen Ayre fame). In the kitchen, a Spanish husband-&-wife team keep it simple with a no-fuss repertoire of robust, streetwise food. Perch on one of the stools & eat bodegón-style from a tapas/minutas menu that runs from savoury tarts, empanadas & escabèche to breaded veal with mash, marinated churassco steak or Argentinian-style shepherd’s pie. Alternatively, book a table for a full restaurant meal of, say, pisto machego (a riff on ratatouille) followed by locro (beef & pumpkin stew) or a char-grilled steak. Latin America rules on the short wine list. The interior is light & airy, with decoration provided by family heirlooms, images of Buenos Aires & artwork collected by George Rockett over the years.

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