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With its restrained, dark-hued ambience, this branch of the trusted Davy’s chain is a popular haunt for the pinstriped brigade. Despite its proximity to St James’s Palace, prices here are good
enough to suit parsimonious republicans: around £21 bags a cracking Rioja Crianza or Davy’s own deeply sinkable Pinot Grigio from a cannily collated list that includes three dozen by the glass
& peaks with a patrician premier cru 2004 Chassagne-Montrachet at £68. To eat, Davy’s egalitarian nosh includes twice-baked cheese soufflé, sea trout with beetroot, watercress &
horseradish, followed by blood orange sorbet, for example. And there are tankards of Davy’s Old Wallop or Whitstable Oyster Ale, too.
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