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Squaremeal Review of Cross Keys ?

The guys behind Fulham favourites The Sands End and Brown Cow haven't strayed far from home for their latest venture: a full refurbishment of Chelsea's venerable Cross Keys. This venue was once frequented by the likes of Agatha Christie, Dylan Thomas and Bob Marley, but today's customers are more in the Barbour-wearing, chihuahua-hugging mould. The owners' trademark town-meets-country interiors are out in force here – think higgledy-piggledy old chairs, distressed wood and low-hanging industrial lights. We've been impressed by the seasonal Brit-accented cooking too – from a comforting but sophisticated starter of crunchy tempura cauliflower with raisin raita and curried quails' eggs to rich slow-cooked lamb breast with dauphinoise potatoes. Desserts such as a delightful chocolate mousse with whipped chocolate cream, caramel and peanut nougatine are also spot on. Drinkers are as welcome as diners, so expect plenty of real ales alongside an Old World-leaning wine list.

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Essential Details for Cross Keys

  • Cuisine: Gastropub
  • Area: Chelsea
  • Price: £38
  • Wine: £14.95
  • Champagne: £37.50
  • Private Dining: 35

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