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Square Meal Review of Claude's Kitchen ?

Yes, it’s hidden away, located above Amuse Bouche wine bar, but we reckon chef Claude Compton’s modest little restaurant is something special. The simple decor of this former function room makes a virtue of the Victorian floorboards, wood panelling and sash windows, with mood lighting supplied by a few low-hanging Edison bulbs and tableside candles. The ambience is buzzy and the service sharp and cheery, but everything here is about Compton’s superlative modern European cooking. From the likes of scallops with blueberries, salty pig skin and spicy romesco to onglet steak with pickled cockles, popped spelt and lovage, dishes are always intriguing but never laboured or reliant on foams, gels or other fripperies. Desserts maintain the high standard (smoked and spiced cherries paired with burnt meringue, for instance), and most pleasing of all, prices for this “clever food” are no more than at your average gastropub.

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