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Lee Clarke trained with big names such as Marco Pierre White and worked in hot-shot venues such as The Ivy, but came back home to open this “bright, comfortable gem” in Peterborough’s old Masonic Hall. Many original features such as the cast-iron radiators and ceiling panelling have been retained, while the two dining rooms are quirkily decorated with print wallpaper and hand-painted cows. Clarke is big on sustainability, and his food has a vibrant seasonal flavour – think mackerel with burnt leek purée and salt-baked pink fir potato, hay-baked chicken or venison Wellington with local asparagus and St George’s mushrooms. Desserts also chime with the calendar – try the evocatively named ‘fallen apple’ or poached William pear with chervil root purée. “Accessible prices” and extremely attentive, obliging service go down well with readers. Clarke also runs Monday-morning cookery classes from his kitchen.


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