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Square Meal Review of Clarke's ?

Following its 30th anniversary in 2014, Sally Clarke’s Kensington evergreen looks in fine fettle to enter a new decade. A recent refurb has given the restaurant a dapper makeover, without losing the soul of the place, while the food continues to combine Sally’s beloved Californian char-grilling with organic produce and seasonal Mediterranean flavours – think buffalo mozzarella salad with melon, watercress and balsamic dressing or veal chop with a lemon, shallot and parsley gremolata. Fans praise the kitchen’s “consistency”, so you can safely plump for the legendary no-choice menu, which might see warm ricotta and asparagus followed by roasted chicken breast with tapenade and a dessert such as soft meringue with peaches. Aproned waiters and suited managers tread a perfect line between formality and familiarity, while pedigree wines raise a glass to New World know-how.


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