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Following its move from the King's Road to what was previously Wheeler's of St James's, Chutney Mary has reinvented itself as a smart, modern Indian destination. Out front is a bar for lunchtime snacks and evening cocktails, while the dining room is generously spaced, comfortably upholstered and softly illuminated by candlelight. The cooking remains as high end as ever, so expect venison samosas fashioned like wafer-thin pastry cones, Rajasthan lal maas featuring buttery osso bucco, boneless lamb shank in a richly spiced sauce, and a kulfi retake involving salted caramel and cinder toffee. We've also been impressed by the crispy fried prawns, fragrant Afghani chicken tikka and diverting side orders of thin garlic naan and creamed mustard leaves. For lunch there are salads, small plates and lighter dishes. The wine list merits serious attention, service is as smart and urbane as it was in Chelsea, and the all-new Chutney Mary
is also a good call for breakfast.
It’s a plush affair from the minute the impeccably dressed doorman lets you into the lavish bar area. There’s something rather wonderful about seeing a doorman in a dashing turban in the middle of St James’s too. In the large dining room, no expense has been spared, yet it doesn’t feel intimidating or stifling.We started with some snacks; crab goli kebabs (£10) and a magnificent chilli cheese toast (£7.50), which would struggle to be bettered in London, I don’t doubt...
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