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Square Meal Review of Cecconi's ?

It’s typical of Cecconi’s glamorous nonchalance that Hugh Grant can be sitting at the bar and no one gives him a second glance. Like the heartthrob movie star, this venue is slick, sharp-suited – and just a bit cheeky, despite its sombre get-up of green leather chairs and monochrome tiled floors. Breakfast is a Mayfair institution (don’t turn up without a reservation) and from then on it’s a non-stop whirl of air-kissing, bear-hugging – and some very decent eating. Reader recommendations include lobster spaghetti, richly sauced crab ravioli and perfect tiramisu; our own favourites include calamari with punchy alioli, juicy veal milanese and crunchy side orders of zucchini fritti – though we’re also suckers for a stool at the bar, Prosecco on tap and some anchovies, cured meats and crostini to graze on. It’s hardly cutting-edge stuff, but the food’s “perfectly reliable” – served by “friendly and attentive” staff full of character – and the good-humoured ambience a failsafe bet for when you want to have a good time.

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