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Square Meal Review of Caravaggio ?

The cutting edge of culinary fashion may lie elsewhere, but this stately City Italian eschews clichés and the result is a menu that’s rather more interesting than the hushed, establishment setting might suggest: Umbrian spelt soup with cured pork cheek, octopus carpaccio with seared red prawns, cocoa pappardelle with cinnamon-scented wild boar ragù and grilled Surrey Farm sirloin with spicy Calabrian n’duja sauce all suggest a kitchen that’s not scared to step away from the comfort zone. Mind you, there’s comfort aplenty in this art-deco 1930s banking hall: tables are well-spaced, ceilings are high and the huge windows ensure plenty of natural light. Classy Italian wines dominate the cosmopolitan list, but there’s a trio of English sparklers too. Everyone agrees this is top local choice for business lunches (especially the discreet mezzanine), while the marble-topped bar makes a fine perch if you’re going solo.  


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