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Squaremeal Review of Canton Arms ?

Located on scruffy South Lambeth Road, this “fantastic” neighbourhood boozer got a minimal makeover in 2010 when it was taken over by Aussie chef and writer Trish Hilferty (ex-The Eagle and The Anchor & Hope). Expect a daily menu full of pared-down British and European flavours, from smoked cod’s roe with Jersey royals, horseradish and dill or home-cured bresaola with mustard fruits to grilled Cornish lemon sole with salsify and brown shrimps or braised Creedy Carver chicken with cannellini beans and wild garlic aïoli. Meanwhile, the Canton’s food-friendly wine list is packed with “amazing finds and organic jewels” – plus lots of big flavours. No bookings, but friendly staff operate a waiting list for those who are happy to hang around in the bar until a table becomes free. It may not be in the most fashionable part of town, but the Canton Arms is “always buzzing”.

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