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‘Puerto del Canario’ sounds far more exotic than plain old ‘Canary Wharf’, and this little slice of Spain makes a good stab at letting the sunshine in. Camino’s ‘gorgeous’ waterside terrace is the
place to be in high summer, while upended Tio Pepe barrels make a jaunty indoor perch on unavoidably English days. Road-trip tapas such as chicken livers with parsley salad, crispy squid with
pungent alioli, or tortilla with just the right wobble arrive quickly for those on the go, while others linger with plates of scallops, chorizo and broad beans, or lamb rump with pea purée and baby
onions from the charcoal grill. To drink, there are jugs of sangria, draught Estrella and numerous well-regarded Spanish wines, all served by energetic young staff. Funky sounds herald the end of
the working week, and there’s brunch, too.
At fewer than 50 bins, this is a well-put-together and laudably concise celebration of Spain – no other country gets a look in until you get to spirits. Reds and whites are listed by style – sunny, juicy, buxom and luscious for the whites. Half the wines are available in a variety of smaller serves, the ubiquitous tasting notes are short but helpful and the illustrations of the cocktails are a nice touch, too. Lots of personality, but no over-indulgence and superbly customer-friendly.
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