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A long-time favourite for intimate French food in Edinburgh’s New Town, Marcelline Levicky’s marvellous little Café Marlayne scores heavily with its simple, unfussy approach and consistency. Warm
wooden tones, twinkling lights and old posters set the tone for a menu that seldom varies from week to week – although that’s the way Marcelline’s regulars like it. Boudin noir, whole baked sea
bass, rack of Borders lamb and roast pork belly are perennial hits, but also look out for Gressingham duck breast with spiced red cabbage and port reduction or rose veal chop with wilted gem
lettuce and a poached duck egg. Prices are very fair (especially for the pared-back lunch menu), and there are some quaffable wines to wash it all down. There’s a larger branch at 13 Antiqua Street
(0131 558 8244), opposite the Edinburgh Playhouse.
Devoted readers will note that we’ve already reviewed Café Marlayne, almost exactly a year ago. That was, however, their Antigua Street branch, and given that the Thistle Street venue is quite a different experience, I thought it worthy of a separate review of its own.ExteriorI was joined today, for a spot of early December merry-making, by Kim, who recently quested to Igg’s, and is a regular quester.As I ranted, yesterday, I’m seriously disappointed by the Christmas menus of some places, this year, as I think many of them offer very poor value. When booking this lunch, I was delighted...
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