What marks out this branch of the American BBQ & smoke house mini-chain is its Mad Men-ish bar that celebrates what made Kentucky famous. That’s bourbon & whiskey, of course, & there’s a fair array of the stuff from £2.75 a shot: Baker’s seven-year-old sour mash, Rock Hill Farms 50%, Blanton’s Original & the figgy, almondy, peppery, cigar-box complexity of red-letter day bourbon, George T Stagg (a cask-strength beauty at £12.95). If you can’t face it straight, try it in £6.75 cocktails such as old fashioned, mint julep, Kentucky root-beer float or rock & rye sour. There’s also a heavy-duty selection of beers, pale ales & porters – notably Odell’s 90 Shilling Ale, Sierra Nevada Torpedo Extra IPA & Anchor Porter. Iced tea & wine suit those with different palates, although there’s no sign of any American labels. That sort of unpatriotic behaviour could get you a bad reputation down Louisville way.