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DUE TO CLOSE IN JANUARY AND REOPEN AS CLAUDE BOSI AT BIBENDUM IN SPRING 2017
There have been changes in the kitchen of late, but Bibendum still epitomises the values that made it a bastion of the London restaurant scene. A light refurbishment of the "airy" first-floor dining room has retained the iconic swagger of the Michelin man (whose image appears on the stained-glass windows, butter dishes and curved waiter stations), while the kitchen delivers impressive, seasonal Franglais food in pretty hefty portions. Our dressed crab was a perfect rendition pointed up with capers and shallots, while a dense slab of entrecôte was topped with a garlic and parsley crust and buttery slivers of bone marrow. Be warned that lighter options are thin on the ground, so conclude simply with lemon sorbet and a chilled vodka shot. A Coravin storage system means that many big-hitting wines are available by the glass – all deftly dispensed by suited waiters from the traditional school of Gallic hospitality.
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