Aulis at Fera 333

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Simon Rogan is behind this ‘chef’s table’ (such a label hardly does Aulis justice) at Claridge’s, designed as a development kitchen for Rogan’s Fera. The intimate, high-ceilinged room is dominated by a central counter, with six stools on one side and chefs at the top of their game on the other. Overseen by executive chef Dan Cox, Aulis serves up a 15-course menu, entirely separate to Fera’s and prepared in front of you. Surrounded by an artillery of cooking tools, expect a succession of innovative dishes, with many ingredients sourced from Rogan’s two-Michelin-starred L’Enclume in Cumbria. On our visit, dishes included quail eggs, their yolks removed with a syringe and replaced with smoked eel, as well as a salad leaf dotted with Portland crab, pumpkin, smoked cream and pork fat. The latter was merely a bite, but the sheer flavour released was akin to culinary alchemy; such close proximity to this level of cooking results in a deeper appreciation of the final taste. A meal at Aulis doesn’t come cheap at £150 per head (£280 with wine), but as a treat for anybody who is passionate about food and exclusivity, we wholeheartedly recommend it.

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