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These airy, suburban premises have been through several incarnations in recent years, from sleek, ambitious Le Gallois to the more informal Oscar’s. Now family-run and reimagined as Arbennig
(‘special’ in Welsh), it’s pitched neatly between the two – serving up assured, stylish dishes in relaxed surroundings. Berry-coloured walls and bistro furniture set the stage for modern European
creations such as West Coast mussel tagliatelle with tomato and basil cream or seared beef fillet with spiced treacle glaze and rocket. There’s comfort food too – maybe shepherd’s pie or a dry-aged
burger with smoked Caerphilly cheese, creamed leeks, bacon and chips with truffled mayo on the side. Desserts also plough a similar furrow – witness apple and cinnamon crumble with pistachio ice
cream. A decent international wine list eases things along nicely, and there are genuine smiles from the tip-top staff.
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