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Squaremeal Review of Aqua Spirit ?

Arguably the main draw at Aqua is its sizeable roof terrace and bar, a precious rarity in this part of town. On a hot day, it might as well be Marbella, as Chelsea meets Chelmsford, simultaneously laying into bling bubbles and glitzy Asian grazing plates. Indoors, a glossy carousel bar is the fulcrum of what could be a noughties Tokyo nightspot populated by City traders, rag traders, estate agents, footballers and sons of sheikhs who are happy to ramp up sizeable tabs. At £18 a pop (including service), Toreador and Last Samurai (Tanqueray 10 gin, cacao and cherry) aren't exactly the stuff of a cheap night out. High living comes at a price here, but you can always trade down to a Clover Club or Fuji Crusta (a pear and Belvedere vodka fix) – relative snips at £15.

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