Showing the young upstarts how it should be done, this Soho old-timer eschews hip concepts and fancy-pants interiors in favour of the basics: good wine and good food, in that order. Andrew Edmunds’ paper tablecloths, candles-in-bottles and scrawled menus represent the bare bones of bistro design, which simply adds to the enduring, romantic charm of this “cordial” Georgian townhouse. Little changes here, although some recent refurbishment has spruced things up a tad on both floors. Straightforward dishes of slow-cooked octopus with chorizo, plaice with Jersey royals and samphire or guinea fowl with roast radicchio and white polenta open up all sorts of wine-matching possibilities on a list that’s respected for its eclecticism, bin-end bargains and unusually gentle mark-ups. Bookings are taken only a week in advance – infuriating at times, agreeably democratic at others.
Square Meal is proud to be supporting homeless charity StreetSmart in their 2015 campaign, for the seventh year running.
StreetSmart works with over 500 restaurants nationwide by adding £1 to every bill throughout November and December, which is donated to local homeless charities.