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Square Meal Review of Al Duca ?

In a part of town that’s more polished brogue than laid-back loafer, this long-serving Italian a few steps from Jermyn Street is designed to please both the palate and the wallet. Concertina windows open onto alfresco pavement tables when the sun shines, while clean lines, earthy colours and a well-stocked wine rack set the tone for confident, effortlessly simple cooking at “remarkable” prices. Start with a plate of beef carpaccio, green beans, Pecorino, pancetta and lemon dressing, move on to tagliatelle with black truffle and mushrooms, then seared tuna with cannellini beans and sautéed turnip tops. For afters, perhaps try chocolate parmigiana with limoncello mousse, say. Seasonality informs choice on the flexible fixed-priced menu, bolstering a core selection of dishes favoured by the restaurant’s many regulars, while wine list offers a decent spread from the Italian regions.

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