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Marco Pierre White’s branded resurrection of Wheeler’s bears little resemblance to the legendary originals of oysterman Bernard Walsh, & it now smacks of the celeb chef’s trademark,
Anglo-French retrospective approach to matters gastronomic. Seafood is still here, of course, with classic fish pie & buttered peas, battered haddock with triple-cooked chips & Dover sole
popping up at £30 with tartare sauce, but keenly priced Scotch beef, grills & roast meats, ranging from honey-glazed pork belly with butter beans to lamb Dijonnaise with a perfunctory
dauphinoise, are given equal, if not higher, billing on a roll-out menu that puts value & reliability above inspiration. It’s a ‘poor showing’, laments one reader. The dining room’s slightly
kinky, burlesque-inspired photography, garish red walls & unsympathetic lighting also receive critical comment.
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