Wahaca Islington

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Ex-MasterChef winner Thomasina Miers now oversees branches of her popular canteen-style eatery across the capital and beyond, luring good-timers and young families with its mix of colourful, fashion-conscious surrounds and ‘flavoursome’ Mexican cooking. Vibrantly spiced street food is the deal, which means tacos filled with grilled steak or marinated, slow-cooked pork pibil, crisp tostadas with ceviche or refried beans, taquitos, quesadillas and specials such as the queso fundido – Mexico’s answer to fondue. Salads, grills and burritos bulk out the menu, while a heart-stopping pudding selection includes churros y chocolate and dulce de leche ice cream. Wahaca’s eco-credentials bear scrutiny, and the upbeat young vibe is fuelled by copious Tequila cocktails – even if that true Mexican zing is sometimes missing from the plates. Note: no bookings, but you can always sip a margarita while you wait.

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  1. My very first visit, around three years ago, wasn’t a dazzling love at first sight. The Covent Garden branch, with its spacious basement turned dining area, had me wonder if time had turned back, and I had just stepped in the depths of my former school canteen. Sure, I liked the food – but there was something uncanny to eating it in a windowless room, watching waiters hurry from table to table as the Saturday night hullabaloo unfolded. Since then, I tried the glitzier and more sophisticated Soho branch, and recently visited the Islington restaurant. I loved its relaxed atmosphere and funky decor, and enjoyed perusing...
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