Twenty Princes Street

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Square Meal Review of Twenty Princes Street ?

Housed in a lavishly corniced Victorian room with oak floors, high ceilings, black leather upholstery and triple-height sash windows looking out onto some of Edinburgh’s iconic buildings, this glamorous and sophisticated first-floor restaurant has quickly become the darling of the city’s beautiful people. Billed as a ‘grill and smokehouse’ with much depending on the output of a centrepiece Josper oven, it offers an eclectic, brasserie-style menu covering ‘warm-up acts’ (aka starters), shellfish and crustacea, ‘headline’ dry-aged Castle Mey steaks, eclectic salads (bulgur wheat, feta and beetroot, for example) and a roster of punchy, international mains ranging from ox cheek with black-eyed bean and chipotle stew to halibut with chanterelles, dashi broth, citrus jelly and crisp vermicelli noodles. If the three TV screens showing Laurel & Hardy films become irritating, you can always seek relief in the Juniper cocktail bar across the corridor.

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