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Ever the champion of British cooking, exec chef Brian Turner stays true to nature by keeping things simple yet lively. There aren't many hotel dining room menus these days where one's likely to
come across good old fashioned shepherds pie or cock-a-leakie soup, but judging by the quality of cooking here, it's been worth the gamble. Sure, there are a few nods to the contemporary – sweet
potato and pumpkin fritters; pressed salmon with cucumber piccalilli dressing – but in essence this is solidly traditional fare. Piping hot baked macaroni cheese with baby spinach scores a high
comfort mark, as does an amazingly tender shoulder of lamb on a bed of puy lentils. There's something for everyone, from Yorkshire cod fishcake with mushy peas to the grill list, which features 24
day matured pure Scottish Aberdeen Angus beef and a gargantuan T-bone steak with garlic mushrooms. And old school puds of the lemon tart or trifle with sponge biscuits variety are difficult to say
no to. Wines are kept to a brief selection though they aren't exactly cheap. The one disappointment is that despite the sparkling service, the hotel restaurant setting is predictably soulless.
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