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Set in 50 acres of parkland close to the M25, this creakily atmospheric, Grade I-listed manor house is now a premier-league getaway with heritage trappings but a modern culinary outlook. Top
honours go to the antiquated and intimate Tudor Room, where chef Shane Hughes (ex-Ynyshir Hall) is now delivering hot-shot cooking with bags of flair, invention and common sense. A dazzling
selection of cromesquis nibbles and a cheeky amuse-bouche set the tone for meals in which flavour is king – from the complex savoury notes of beer-brined pork ballottine with smoked eel to the
melting richness of braised ‘Jacob’s ladder’ beef with carrot and snail, everything is handled with aplomb. Desserts also bring out the big guns – witness a bitter chilli chocolate tart with Thai
basil and mango cannelloni. An expert sommelier is on hand to assist with the lengthy wine list.
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