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Trullo’s young owners obviously heeded the advice of their high-profile mentors (Jamie Oliver, Rose Gray), because ‘they make running a restaurant look easy’. All the signs are good – from
cheerfully enthusiastic staff to honest seasonal food at reasonable prices, and there’s a sure hand in the kitchen, too. ‘Beautiful’ pasta receives warm praise, from pappardelle with beef-shin ragù
to outstanding spaghetti with hispi cabbage and bottarga; otherwise, try crispy pig’s ears with anchovy ahead of a mighty Black Hampshire pork chop from the grill. There’s also a cracking
all-Italian wine list with a fine choice by the glass or carafe, personable tasting notes and hand-drawn maps. These days, you can choose to eat in the rustic ground-floor bistro or the more urban
basement (complete with exposed ducts); either way, it ‘can’t be faulted’.
At only 12 pages of wines, the Trullo list is a model of restraint, yet still manages to cover every region and style, with no wines (bar a couple of English fizzes) from outside Italy. Attractive, hand-drawn maps are a nice touch, and thumbs-up for the information on each wine – you’ll find details on the region, the grape, the alcohol level and the wine’s weight (on a scale of one to five) as well as personable tasting notes.
After visiting Le Coq in Islington we fell in love with the area; it’s so busy and FULL of restaurants. We returned to try Trullo, an Italian restaurant which offers a simple and seasonal daily changing menu.Sadly we weren’t seated in the ground floor dining room which had a great atmosphere, instead we were seated downstairs which didn’t have quite the same buzz; it felt a tad boring. We were at least seated in a booth, which had a really low ceiling. It was like being in a cave which was quite fun. I do love a good booth...
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Urban myth dictates that if you can’t fall asleep at night, you’re awake in someone else’s dreams; in my case it was the beef shin pappardelle from Trullo. When asked about favorite restaurants, or even worse, favorite dishes in London, I find it easier to discuss British foreign policy than giving a definite answer. My list is endless and the dishes that have charmed their way into my stomach are even more. After my Friday night visit at Trullo, there is finally an answer; beef shin pappardelle is the best dish I have ever paid for...
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