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Adam Byatt's headlining restaurant is still the gastronomic destination of choice for Claphamites. Its ‘easy elegance' and sleek, dark looks haven't dated, the linen and glasses are all pristine,
and the place simply oozes confidence – charming, ‘unrushed' staff clearly take great pride in the food they're serving. Byatt's cooking is a brilliantly playful take on modern themes, shot through
with a ‘wry sense of humour' – witness a signature dish of pig's-trotter ‘patties' topped with strands of crackling and accompanied by sourdough and sauce gribiche. If that sounds too earthy, try
scallop ceviche with gooseberry pickle and charred cucumber or a precisely timed piece of cod, given the swanky treatment with mussel emulsion and sea vegetables, before indulging in BBQ apricots
with almonds, crème fraîche sorbet and smoked honeycomb. House wines are fairly priced, and the admirable policy of lowering mark-ups on more expensive bottles means that it pays to drink well.
I've been to Trinity before with some friends and really loved it. It's in the 'burbs of South London, so not the most convenient of locations to make a return visit that feasible for The Better and Half (TBH) and I. But seeing chef/patron Adam Byatt appear on the Great British Menu on TV recently reminded me what a fabulous meal I'd had at Trinity before and I promptly booked a table. It was good as I remembered!We decided on the set lunch menu, which at £32 for 3 courses is incredible value. But first we were to start with warm bread rolls and a whipped goat’s milk butter – I love the fact that both are made in-house. Along with the bread, we were served the thinnest of buttery puff pastry straws with black olive tapenade, radishes and a delicious smoked salmon dip...
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After living in London for over ten years, I am still no closer to meeting this level-headed and reasonable individual on the Clapham bus, but I have discovered a far better reason to visit Clapham: Trinity restaurant. The restaurant is the brainchild of chef Adam Byatt and opened in November 2006. Adam started his career with an apprentice chef placement at Claridges, followed by part-time studies at the Academy of Culinary Arts in Bournemouth while continuing to work at Claridges. After also working at The Square and Worx, he opened his first restaurant, the much-acclaimed Thyme, in Clapham in 2002. After closing Thyme in 2005, he opened Trinity in late 2006. The restaurant’s philosophy is to provide well-sourced, seasonal and reasonably priced fine dining, both by way of two tasting menus and an a la carte selection. I had heard only good things about the place and was thrilled when super talented Ailbhe recently invited me to be her dinner guest while she sketched the new tasting menu for the Trinity newsletter. The first thing that struck me was how lovely and light the room was, with its floor to ceiling windows onto the street; and the second was how friendly and knowledgeable all the staff members were – a truly customer-focused experience...
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