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‘The Japanese do stark better than anyone else’, notes a reader, and this minimalist 16-seater in a Bayswater backwater proves the point. Chef/owner Takashi Takagi used to run a sushi joint near
Euston, but Shiori represents a big step up in ambition with its refined take on ceremonial kaiseki-ryori cuisine. Set menus offer ‘tiny mouthfuls of intricately nuanced food’, full of delicacy and
subtle tones – ‘how often do you get to eat cherry blossom in a soup and an ice cream’? Sit back and marvel at the clean, startling flavours of diced raw sea bream with monkfish-liver sauce,
snow-crab consommé, nigiri sushi with homemade soy sauce, or refreshing yuzu sorbet. Prices are on the high side, but specially chosen sakés and sweet service make amends. One caveat: ‘bellowing
guffaws and shrieking Hoorays’ can scupper any thoughts of Zen-like tranquillity.
On a wet, wintery evening in late 2012, I hurried along Blandford St, desperate to get out of the freezing air. Stepping into the tiny dining room of this two year “pop-up”, to the warm welcome of the charming maitre d’, I had no idea that what would follow would be such a terrific evening of culinary delights. Having already decided to order the 10-course tasting menu, and thus eaten a suitably small snack for lunch at the nearby La Fromagerie, we both studied the menus, so as to prepare for what was to come...
More from Agent Restauranteur »
The Shiori is probably as close to having a meal in Japan as you're likely to get without jumping on a plane. Recently relocated to Bayswater, The Shiori is the evolution of Sushi of Shiori, the tiny sushi bar near Euston that closed late last year. I never got a table there, since, much like Sushi Tetsu, it only held a handful of seats. At The Shiori, the emphasis moves away from sushi to explore the full range of Kyoto-style kaiseki and showcase the incredible skills of the chef. The room is still small, with around 6 tables, but it is obviously a labour of love for the husband and wife team. That passion for perfection is infectious...
More from The Insatiable Eater »
Luckily, my irresponsible 'buds returned just in time for a meal with the girls I've been very much looking forward to for a number of months, at The Shiori.Twelve perfectly presented portions showcasing a broad array of Japanese cuisine, were laid out in front of us over the course of nearly four hours...
More from little swallow : china doll »
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