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‘Beyond divine!’ chimed one disciple of this bubbly restaurant in the vaulted crypt of St Paul’s Cathedral, which styles itself as a crusading representative for our nation’s finest nosh. The
kitchen is meticulous when it comes to sourcing, and the monthly changing lunch menu preaches the gospel with plenty of zeal: set out with a bowl of nettle, wild-garlic and potato soup, before
venturing south for a plate of braised Sussex lamb neck with rosemary goats’ curd and spring greens. Desserts are no less patriotic – lemon posset with cardamom crumble, for instance – and you can
wash it all down with ‘Britain in a glass’ (English sparkling wine with Chegworth Valley apple and rhubarb juice). The adjoining café pumps out soups, cakes and sandwiches, and there are afternoon
teas for tourists craving a dose of cucumber-sandwich clichés.
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