The Restaurant at Les Ambassadors

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Following The Milroy’s closure, little has changed at gaming club Les Ambassadeurs; this new incarnation still offers the hoi polloi a lunchtime taste of how the other half live. Ornately carved staircases, Georgian architrave & jellyfish-like chandeliers grace the triple-height dining room, creating the illusion of an exclusive, rarefied world. Many of the staff have been around almost as long as the furniture, but are suitably adept at finishing linguine pescatore at the flambé trolley, filleting Dover soles, or blending seasonings for steak tartare. Some prices may shock (T-bone steak £55, pressed & seared foie gras with fig compote £25), although the likes of breast & leg of duck, butternut squash, pak choy & spiced apple chutney (£20) offer cost-effective ways to eat like a lord. During warmer months, a privet-ringed outdoor terrace overlooking Hyde Park is in demand.

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