The Marquis at Alkham

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Square Meal Review of The Marquis at Alkham ?

A bold refurbishment has brought this roadside village pub right up to date, & it now works its magic as a smartly styled, well-upholstered restaurant-with-rooms. Everything about the place suggests high-achieving gusto, & chef Charlie Lakin is on song in the kitchen. Local flavours loom large across his seasonally attuned menus, whether it’s soused fillet of mackerel with avocado mousse & a salad of radishes & land cress, or medallions of Kentish rose veal served with foie gras, cocotte potatoes, globe artichoke & a warm fine-bean salad. Locally shot game is also a strong suit (perhaps Romney Marsh duck breast with a duck faggot, fondant potato, Swiss chard & sauce poivrade), bread is baked on the premises, & desserts span everything from quince soufflé with mulled Biddenden cider to coconut pannacotta.

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