The Lord Clyde 1

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Square Meal Review of The Lord Clyde ?

South African-born Ernst Van Zyl has the kind of CV most chefs dream about, with stints at The Fat Duck, Noma and Restaurant Frantzén in Stockholm under his belt – so it’s rather surprising to find him snuggled away in a neatened-up pub surrounded by well-manicured Cheshire countryside. There’s room in the bar for thirsty locals, but Van Zyl’s bold (if occasionally jumbled) cooking is the real draw. Flourishes such as a crisp, ethereal beetroot meringue sandwiched with blue cheese cosset guests before dishes such as the ‘TLC salad’ (21 raw, cooked and pickled ingredients) start to confound expectations. Well-chosen produce receives fiddly high-end treatment, as in Chelford lamb rump with broccoli purée and delicate, merguez-style sausage, while malva sponge pudding with apricots, buttermilk and rooibos jelly pays homage to Van Zyl’s roots. Prices are refreshingly “normal” and there’s a sharp terroir-led wine list too.

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