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Michelin-starred Tom Kitchin is widely regarded as one of Scotland’s culinary heavyweights, a chef whose “truly exceptional” cooking is driven by pickings from the country’s regional growers, producers and fishermen. Fresh seasonal ingredients are his building blocks, and there’s real craft and complexity about the results on the plate: a terrine of monkfish liver, for example, is served with a carpaccio of octopus, fennel and lemon compote, while rabbit is subjected to ingenious but thoughtful treatment (the saddle is stuffed with spinach and presented alongside a nicely crisped leg and a ragoût of the kidneys). To conclude, desserts such as a délice of elderberries, praline and dark chocolate with elderberry sorbet are simply exquisite. The restaurant itself is a model of informality and restraint – part of a converted warehouse with bare tables, functional furnishings and a large window into the kitchen. “Brilliant staff” and “fabulous tasting menus” earn bonus points.
To top off the culinary tour of Edinburgh, and also my birthday, we got a table at The Kitchin, restaurant of the adeptly named Tom Kitchin and somewhere that has been on my list since the first time I heard about his cooking. Having already proven my theory that the quality of ingredients in Edinburgh is awesome his theme of ‘from nature to plate’ which sees him use all the best of the local and seasonal produce I couldn’t see how this could be anything else than amazing, and thankfully I was not proven wrong...
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