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This remodelled Victorian ‘eco chic’ pub should appeal to Fulham’s 4x4 mums, Made in Chelsea blondes and the iPad posse in need of a virtual office with catering. What they get is a
smart-casual bar with a slightly more formal restaurant served by an open kitchen at the back. Arrive early for smoothies, duck egg with truffle soldiers or a full English. Otherwise, dine on
salmon sashimi, spicy falafel or pigeon with pomegranate and root vegetable slaw, ahead of velvety pork belly with wild mushrooms, apple and parsnip purée or beer-battered whiting with hand-cut
chips. The above-average wine list has numerous options by the glass and carafe including Shawgate Pandora, a light Suffolk white. High-end prices (£25 for well-hung loin of venison with spiced red
cabbage, cauliflower purée and herb polenta) reflect some upward mobility at the ‘wrong end of King’s Road’.
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