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Square Meal Review of The Hardwick ?

Busy and buzzy, Stephen Terry’s much-lauded eatery pays homage to the country pub, with accommodation and an extended dining area added to the package. The decorative style remains rustic and homely, but the cooking has become more clever and complex – although you can still get classy versions of pub classics such as a veal burger or pork meatloaf. If you’re after something with a bit more gutsy zest, go for local chicken breast teamed with deep-fried polenta, parmesan, cavolo nero, tomatoes and borlotti beans or roast cod with chorizo, Padrón peppers, saffron risotto cake and romesco sauce. Elsewhere, Middle White pork stars in an epic feast involving roast loin, slow-cooked belly and cromesquis of ham hock, alongside Gentleman’s Relish, roast fennel, heritage carrots and Jerusalem artichokes. To finish, don’t miss the baked stem-ginger cheesecake and shortbread crumble with new season’s Yorkshire rhubarb jelly. “Timely, polite, unpretentious service” is also appreciated.

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