The Greyhound on the Test

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Square Meal Review of The Greyhound on the Test ?

What was The Greyhound Inn now has new owners and a modified name reflecting its position, with a pretty garden backing onto the famous river Test. Inside, it is all low beams, wood floors, antique furniture and wood-burners, with a promising restaurant attached. The kitchen bakes its own bread and coaxes the best out of top-drawer, locally sourced ingredients – witness carpaccio of Broughton buffalo brightened with celeriac rémoulade and a sprinkling of onion, capers, pine nuts and micro-leaves. Next up could be a crispy-skinned piece of hake with purple sprouting broccoli, lemon butter and sweet potato dauphinoise – all deceptively simple and deeply satisfying. The same applies to dessert, perhaps rich and creamy vanilla rice pudding with dollop of tangy apple purée. This is unbuttoned but precise modern cooking, matched by faultless service. Seven individually designed bedrooms too.

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