The Foxhunter

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Square Meal Review of The Foxhunter ?

TV chef Matt Tebbutt has built up a solid reputation as the main man at this converted stationmaster’s house since taking up residence more than a decade ago. Locations don’t come much more rural than this, but there’s more than a hint of urban sophistication about the Foxhunter’s understated decor and smart, cosmopolitan cooking – perhaps a throwback to Tebbutt’s early days as a protégé of Marco Pierre White. Foraging expeditions are a feature of the place, although the seasonal menu pulls in influences from near and far – starters of confit lamb breast with couscous and shallot salad might give way to local veal rump with sautéed girolles, or roast marinated gurnard with saffron, fennel and tomato. Crumbles and cranachan feature among the desserts, while cheeses arrive with hunks of Guinness soda bread. Fastidiously chosen wines fit the food perfectly.

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