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What was The Angler – a down-at-heel local boozer in the pretty Yorkshire village of Dunsforth – has been taken over and brightened up in some style by Paul and Janine Cunliffe. Given that he used
to cook at Harvey Nichols in Leeds, it’s no surprise that he brings a touch of class and a big-city outlook to the food here – perfect for a setting that mixes Indian sandstone floors and an
immense inglenook fireplace with shiny surfaces and rather kitsch equine-themed wallpaper. The cooking delivers complex, assertive flavours – from roast cod with cockles, white bean cassoulet and
leek and potato foam to a duo of beef with chanterelles and a rich jus. Meals begin with a fancy amuse-bouche, Paul’s beer, treacle and oat bread gets people talking, and desserts are bang
up-to-date (think peanut parfait with dehydrated raspberries). Well-chosen wines too.
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