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This unpretentious bar/bistro is already a busy squeeze, although a central Clapham location isn’t its only trump card. Open all day from breakfast, it also has a 2am late licence at weekends, when
cool brand lagers and cocktails such as wild fennel and apple Hendrick’s are what to drink. Wines range from the distinguished (Musar) to the everyday such as a Tempranillo from a selection called
‘sleek, charming and fleshy’ –a description that might equally apply to the well-scrubbed clientele. Chef/owner Robin Gill’s adventurous, intricately presented tapas-style plates have really got
local tongues wagging, and deploy ingredients from The Dairy’s garden. Expect smoked cod with sorrel, slow-cooked beef rib with ‘burnt’ onions and bone marrow or plates of black radish, Pink Lady
apple, curd and hemp seeds – plus nibbles such as chicken-liver mousse with rhubarb at the bar.
On a Friday afternoon I headed to London to visit Helen and we were meeting at The Dairy, Clapham for 6.30pm. I found my way fairly easily, on time and also found somewhere to park for free – result. The Dairy is situated in Clapham Old Town and whether it used to be a dairy many, many years ago I have no idea as I can’t find anything online about it’s history. No matter, but if there is history on a place I think it’s nice to know. The restaurant was quite dimly lit – so I’m afraid the quality of our photos are not great – and had a nice cosy feeling. We were warmly welcomed by a friendly waiter and shown to our table. He took time to explain to us that people usually order 3 – 4 dishes each and share. I normally hate to share my food whereas Helen loves to try other people’s dishes and then usually ends up wanting theirs as it’s better than what she ordered. I had to be brave and embrace the situation. The menu was split up into different parts with ‘sky’ obviously being bird/poultry, ‘garden’ being vegetables and ‘land’ and ‘sea’ – I won’t bother explaining those. We did find it hard to make a decision as most of it sounded great...
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