The Cross at Kenilworth

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Square Meal Review of The Cross at Kenilworth ?

Andreas Antona opened the original Simpsons in Kenilworth before moving his Michelin-starred grandee to Birmingham. Now he has re-forged links with the old Warwickshire town by taking over The Cross – an upper-crust coaching inn with bags of pedigree. Inside, there are signs of a mature, expert facelift with lots of upholstered leather and baronial wood panelling offset by tin ceiling tiles and industrial lights. Antona has installed his long-time colleague Adam Bennett to run the kitchen, and the result is elegantly worked food with high aspirations – witness a crispy duck egg with smoked haddock, leeks and Berkswell cheese, a maritime combo of sea bass with potato ‘scales’, cockles, mussels and sea vegetables or grilled veal chop on the bone with hand-cut-chips. The wine list reads well, while set lunches (£20/25 for two/three courses) are a smart choice for the local business crowd.

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