The Clubhouse at Four O Nine

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Square Meal Review of The Clubhouse at Four O Nine ?

Clapham’s loft restaurant Four O Nine now leads a double life as clandestine late-night hole-up called The Clubhouse. Once dinner service is over each Friday and Saturday (11pm), punters with prior reservations are ushered in to join lingering night-owl diners for cocktails by candlelight until 3am. Choose from a list of mixes such as chilli margarita, lemon-drop martini, pisco sour, gin garden and Prohibition-era favourites including aviation and sidecar. Sweet ideas might feature ‘subourbon’ squirrel (Woodford Reserve, crème de cacao and Frangelico) and rumple cinnamon (rum and Darjeeling tea), while sparklers run from Champagne-based orange mimosa to limoncello chill (with Prosecco). Live acoustic music is an occasional added draw, but don’t say too much: management is keen to keep The Clubhouse ’86-ed’ (that’s waiter-speak for ‘off the menu’) – so pre-booking is essential.

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