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Look for the queues outside this boisterous no-bookings canteen to find what one reader describes as ‘the best Thai street food outside Thailand’. Spaces on the covered terrace fill up fast, while
the vividly decorated dining room is a joyous hullabaloo with diners ‘piled on top of each other’, enjoying waves of tapas-style dishes served on ‘covetable’ ethnic crockery. Deftly nuanced
flavours and top-notch ingredients are the kitchen’s forte – from chilli-spiked fishcakes, rib-sticking cubes of free-range pork belly and rich peppery venison alongside a plump ‘pod’ of sticky
rice to nourishing chicken soup with umami-rich oyster mushrooms or plates of morning glory with flowering chives (‘some of the nicest greens this side of South-East Asia’). Stellar cocktails and
spice-friendly wines are added reasons to visit, and the welcome is ‘as warm as a Bangkok breeze’.
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The Begging Bowl
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