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Agnar Sverrison remains one of London’s foremost proponents of new Nordic cuisine, bringing his Icelandic heritage and wider Scandi influences to bear in this cool, contemporary Michelin-starred
venue. His food is delicate and colourful, with much emphasis on temperature as well as texture – witness Norwegian king crab served with new season’s garlic, ginger and wasabi, or lightly salted
Icelandic cod accompanied by avocado, cod brandade, squid and chorizo. Lofty prices raise a few eyebrows, but there’s also an appealing set lunch for bargain hunters. The spare, pale dining room,
ornamented with driftwood and bright abstract art, has been boosted by a refurb of the adjoining Champagne bar, while co-owner Xavier Rousset’s superbly balanced global wine list is a source of
considerable pride. Pampering is a given, although the experience can ‘lack any real joy’ – especially as staff deliver their foodie expositions ‘as seriously as a Shakespearian soliloquy’.
Texture’s Champagne list opens with the famous Lily Bollinger quote. You know, the ‘drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad’ one. Then, just to remind you that it takes its Champagne seriously, it moves in to a couple of pages that outline its history, production methods and classification system. It’s not just the number of bins available – though 130 was about as many as any list managed – it is the breadth of producers represented. While many lists majored on multiple offerings from grande marques, Texture had no more than six wines from any house. Its 45 producers (listed alphabetically from Agrapart to Vouette et Sorbée) stretch across the entire champagne region, covering every style from extra-brut to off-dry, and oak-aged to blanc de blancs.
First time I knew about Texture was through Raymond Blanc’s BBC series, How to Cook Well. The restaurant is located just a block away from Selfridges. What is amazing about this place is the cuisine, created by Agnar Sverrison, offers a blend of European cuisine with a big influence from the Scandinavian region, a place where the chef was born and rise...
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I’d given it a miss for a while. I’d been last year for dinner and not been entirely blown away and when that happens I tend not to return. Not when there are always shiny new and interesting places to try. Of which there appear to be about six a week.B had been banging on about the brilliant set lunch and despite the fact that I caught B eating a McDonalds in her office last week, I do respect B’s food opinion. Fantastic value, she said, really. Try it.So when the name Texture jumped out at me...
More from The Food Judge »
This was compensation for not being invited to beach volleyball. Apparently, the whole of the property industry is going to see this excuse-for-a-sport (which bit of surprised are you, exactly?) and for some reason, my firm’s practice insurer thought I wouldn’t be interested in all that bouncing, so invited me to name the restaurant of my choice. That restaurant was Texture.It’s a joint venture between Agnar Sverrisson and Xavier Rousset and as they are both ex-Le Manoir, you’d expect fine dining and a decent wine list. Their website describes the food as “modern European with Scandinavian influences” and...
More from Saying it straight »
Texture is a Michelin starred ‘modern European restaurant and champagne bar with Scandinavian influences’ which is based in Portman Square (round the corner from Selfridges). I’ve wanted to visit Texture for about two years and since watching head chef Agnar Sverrison cook a beautiful scallop dish on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen, I gave my gentleman companion no other choice but to book us in for lunch....
More from samphire and salsify »
Texture’s kitchen, run by Icelandic Agnar Sverrisson aims to present diners with fresh, Nordic inspired food using modern techniques. With some fierce competition in that department from the one star North Road in Farringdon, standards need to be high to deliver the same level of innovation and surprise. While this smart (yet noisy) dining room does its best to impress, the whole experience falls flat and fails to live-up to expectation...
More from vialaporte »
The set menu at £21.90 for two courses and £26 for three has to be one of the best I’ve tried in recent memory. You know what I’m like about set menus – I steer clear. Ridiculous really, but there’s something about going for the cheap option that makes me feel cheap, like I’m missing out on the real deal. And with clients, you can’t always be sure that they will go for it – sometimes you can’t steer them onto the cheap seats.I was interested to see how this would compare with the whole à la carte performance. I recalled the wonderful bowlful of crackers/crispbreads and prayed hoped that we would be getting...
More from Saying it straight »
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