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The sibilant name might whisper Japan, but Sumosan is the London outpost of a Russian-owned group and its style is distinctly international – although the calibre of cooking is never compromised:
the house tartare combines tuna, avocado, quail egg and truffle oil, fried rice comes laced with sirloin steak, and the luxury continues with sea urchin risotto, foie gras and Wagyu beef
teppanyaki. If that sounds a little de trop, simpler ideas such as honey-mustard organic pork ribs are top shouts too, and the quality of the sushi and sashimi speaks for itself. Sumosan attracts a
glitzy crowd of high rollers, but be warned: the later you dine, the busier the dining room will be, and non-regulars may feel excluded from the party. Quiet lunchtimes can seem almost Zen-like by
comparison, but they do offer a cheaper alternative to the otherwise punishing prices.
Sumosan has been discreet on the down low since until recently. Opened by the Wolkow family, it first launched in 1997 in Moscow. Loved by A-list celebrities, they vowed to deliver the best freshest sushi in London.I was invited down to master sushi making; Bubker Belkhit flew all the way from Moscow to join us for the evening. I was the one he feared the most firing questions and being the most knowledgeable sushi expert in the room. Did you know the ginger that is served with your sushi is the palette cleanser and that nigiri you dipped the fish side into your soy sauce...
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