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Square Meal Review of St. John ?

Whatever you do, don’t take a vegetarian to St John. Located round the corner from Smithfield Market, this clean but ‘austere’ restaurant marks a celebration of all things meaty & its menu may well horrify those of a tender disposition. That said, carnivorous fans can’t get enough of the ‘relaxed, unpretentious surrounds’ & ‘refreshingly English’ food. Chef Fergus Henderson revels in nose-to-tail eating &, while pressed pig’s ear, ox heart with dandelion & roast bone marrow with parsley salad may not be everyone’s idea of a good time (‘some dishes are a bit too freaky’), it’s worth throwing caution to the wind & diving in; dishes here are so handsomely executed you’ll soon forget where they came from. Not everything’s that ‘daring’ – fishy choice may include subtly smoked mackerel with potato salad or skate teamed with cucumber or dill, for instance – but, then again, if you go for such options, you are missing the main event.

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