St John’s Chop House

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Square Meal Review of St John’s Chop House ?

Slightly off the tourist track, this characterful old almshouse from local chain Cambs Cuisine is all about carefully crafted individuality. Intimate dining rooms make for a relaxed date night or grown-up graduation meal with the parents, and the reasonably priced menu will appeal to those who like their traditional English fare with a twist – from seared wood pigeon with chorizo, potted squirrel or chicken with truffle mash to a sharing dish of venison haunch stuffed with pork and apricots. The cooking may be a little heavy-handed, but under-nourished students and others won’t leave feeling hungry. The focused wine list sticks faithfully to the Languedoc-Roussillon region, although there’s plenty of choice by the glass and carafe for those who want to explore. Set lunch and early-bird menus represent good value at £15 for 3 courses.

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