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Square Meal Review of Salvatore's ?

Presided over by cocktail maestro Salvatore Calabrese, this take on swingin' 50s' Hollywood is accessible to sharp-dressing non-members before 10pm. With Calabrese's son Gerry in the loop as a weekend party planner, the place attracts a new crowd of postmodern cats who dig the Playboy Club's debonair pose, its famously attired waitresses, pulsating beats and rocking cocktails. Top shouts from the list of faultless classics include Bobby Burns, aviation and sazerac; otherwise, order a Tennessee squirrel (an old fashioned based on Jamaican sangria, Jack Daniel's, Amaretto and passion fruit). Snacks of tacos, Wagyu sliders and deep-fried calamari with dips may not always be on the money, but Salvatore's signature Playboy martinis (Tanqueray 10 gin, bitters and Champagne at £20) are well worth writing home about.

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